- Develop image to allow full tonal range to emerge, usually 3 minutes at 68˚ F. (Zone VI print Developer diluted 3:1)
- Stop in acetic acid bath 20-30 seconds. (2 oz. Glacial acetic acid to 1 gal. Water)
- Fix 5 minutes in hardening fixer (Zone VI Fixer)
- Store batches in tray of plain water with slowing running tray siphon. I often opt instead to change the water frequently because the running water can be annoying, especially since I have music playing when I’m printing.
- When batch is complete, transfer prints to a “true hypo” (sodium thiosulfate) fixing bath (to chemically prepare the prints for toning).
- Transfer prints to a tray of clean water and rinse with tray siphon for five minutes. Interleaf the prints to assure complete rinsing. Alternatively, use two trays and switch the prints between them, replacing contaminated water in each rotation. Continue rotation until prints have had 6 (six) complete water changes.
- Transfer prints to bath with a washing aid like Perma-Wash or hypo clearing solution. Soak and interleaf prints to agitate for 5 minutes.
- Transfer prints to a second washing aid bath that adds Rapid Selenium Toner in a 1:15 dilution. Agitate and soak for 5-10 minutes between 70˚-80˚ until desired tone (a hint of reddish brown) is achieved. Higher temperatures make the toner more active and the effects more pronounced in a shorter time. Temperatures above 80˚ F. can soften the emulsion to a degree that increases risk of abrading or scratching the surface.
- Transfer prints to a quick clear water rinse and then to a vertical archival print washer for 20-30 minutes. After 18 minutes, test with residual hypo test solution and compare results to published standards. Wash longer as indicated.
- ·After washing is complete, squeegee excess water from print surface and place on drying screens face down. Allow air to circulate naturally between screens until prints are dry, usually overnight. Under extremely dry conditions, a print flattening solution may be used to counteract curling.